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For an addictive round of dumplings, especially seafood ones, he suggests the made-in-Austria “ Tradition” Grüner Veltliner from Schloss Gobelsburg. “The wine is crisp with enough body to complement both rich lobster and delicate shrimp,” he explains. For XO sauce–laced noodle concoctions and carnivorous specialties like lacquered duck, underrated Beaujolais comes to the rescue: Stéphane Aviron’s earthy Morgon Côte du Py , for example, “has red berry flavors and soft tannins” that only complements what’s packed inside those white paperboard containers. Evan Turner, sommelier at Helen Greek Food and Wine in Houston, wants to shatter the myth that gyros, grilled fish, and meat on sticks define Greece’s culinary soul. Likewise, the ubiquitous pine-tinged retsina isn’t the country’s only wine. For, say, a citrus and fennel salad beloved in Crete or feta-brined chicken, he reaches for the “decadent Malagousia from Gerovassiliou , a white bursting with aromas of peaches, tropical fruit, and white roses while the palate remains clean and dry.” Something more warming, like wintry lamb braised with tomatoes, cinnamon, clove, and allspice, should pave the way to the Limniona from Domaine Zafeirakis . With its “dark fruit and a hint of earth, it’s velvety with a long finish that lingers like the tingle of a passionate kiss.” Buffet standbys like lamb korma simply don’t do justice to Indian cooking, a vast collage of regional cuisines that vary from state to state. Daniel Beedle, beverage director and assistant GM at Indian Accent in New York , believes that wine is one conduit to showcasing the diverse range of spices and textures that transcend butter chicken. Similar to Riesling, Haardt Muskateller Trocken from Germany’s Müller-Catoir winery is what Beedle likes to drink alongside chili-centric kheema.
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